Prologue, Skincare Heroes
Not all skincare ingredients are created equal. In reality only a few anti-aging ingredients are scientifically proven to work.
Most notably, these include Vitamin A, B, C and hyaluronic acid as well as specific exfoliating acids and peptides. Choosing the right ingredients is the first step. Ensuring that they are formulated in the right way is the second. Lets explore this in more detail, so that you can unlock the power of proven skincare heroes.
Finding skincare that actually work
Most of us know that sunscreen provides vital protection from premature skin aging. Beyond that, it can get confusing to identify which skincare ingredients actually treat and prevent signs of aging in an overcrowded and overhyped product landscape. To navigate this space most effectively it’s useful to ask yourself the following 3 questions when reviewing skincare products:
1. Are the active ingredients science-backed?
We can turn to scientific studies as a reliable source for what truly works.
✔ The best type of studies are independent, peer-reviewed, in vivo, randomized, double-blinded and placebo-controlled (don't worry, you can see below what that means!).
✗ Beware of subjective, qualitative studies with few participants as they involve high risk of producing biased and inaccurate results. This include statements like ‘95% of people says this worked’.
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Double-blinded: researchers and the participants remain unaware of who has been given the actual treatment versus the inactive treatment until the clinical trial ends.
In vivo; studies conducted on actual humans or animals as opposed to being tested in test tubes only e.g. in vitro. Ideally more than 30 human participants.
Placebo-controlled; compares skin treated with an active ingredient versus inactive ingredient.
Peer reviewed; evaluated by other qualified experts within the relevant field.
Randomized; participating people are divided randomly into groups to test a specific treatment.
A review of the evidence in the published scientific literature, reveals that there are only a few proven anti-ageing ingredients. These include a group of Vitamin A derivatives called Retinoids, Vitamin B3, Vitamin C, Hyaluronic acid as well as specific exfoliating acids and peptides.
PROVEN ANTI-AGE INGREDIENTS
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What is it: Retinoids are a family of compounds that derive from Vitamin A. In other words, they look and function similarly to Vitamin A.
Benefits: Reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles through collagen synthesis, improves hyperpigmentation and treats acne.
Golden Standard: Retinoic acid, >0.01% concentration. Retinal, Retinol >0.1% concentration.
Other types: Hydroxypinacolene, Bakuchiol.
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What is it: Niacinamide is a molecule that belongs to the vitamin B group and is the precursor of two important coenzymes (NAD+ and NADP+) involved in several skin cell processes
Benefits: Strengthens skin barrier, regulates oil production, combats pigmentation, reduce inflammation and improves skin texture.
Golden Standard: Vitamin B3, >2% concentration
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What is it: Vitamin C, also known as L-ascorbic acid, is a water-soluble vitamin that is naturally found in our bodies as well as in many fruits and vegetables.
Benefits: Promotes collagen production, brightens complexion, suppress skin inflammation and helps protect against sun damage by neutralizing free radicals.
Golden Standard: L-Ascorbic Acid, >5% concentration
Other types: Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Ascorbate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
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What is it: Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) designates an overall group of exfoliating acids which are naturally found in foods e.g. sugar cane (glycolic acid), milk (lactic acid) and fruits (malic acid).
Benefits: Exfoliates skin and stimulates collagen production resulting in a softer, smoother appearance.
Golden standard: Alpha hydroxy acids, >5-50% concentration. Most researched herein is glycol acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid and α-Lipoic acid.
Other types: Polyhydroxy Acids
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What is it: Peptides are formed from short amino acid sequences that act as tiny messengers to our skin cells, sending messages that stimulate and enhance processes that your skin already performs on its own.
Benefits: The advantages of peptides vary depending on the specific type used, ranging from promoting collagen production, supporting skin repair and healing, to enhancing overall skin texture and appearance. Some also offer antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects.
Golden Standard: Copper peptides (GHK-Cu), Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl®), Tetrapeptide-21 (GEKG), Acetyl hexapeptide-3 (Argireline®)
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What is it: Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan composed of sugars and amino acids. It can retain up to 1,000 times its weight in water, making it a potent hydrating agent. Naturally occurring in our bodies, it acts as a lubricant and cushioning agent for joints, nerves, eyes, and skin, ensuring tissues remain well-hydrated.
Benefits: Hyaluronic acid offers various benefits based on its molecular size. High molecular weight HA creates a moisture-retaining barrier on the skin's surface, improving hydration and smoothness. Low molecular weight HA penetrates deeper into the epidermis, stimulating collagen production and enhancing skin hydration from within.
Golden standard: Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium acetylated hyaluronate, >0.1% concentration levels.
Behind each of the proven ingredients are imitators or derivatives which are often less researched and/or potent as they rely on conversion to the original ingredient. We can therefore differentiate between a 'golden standard' and 'other types' which may or may not provide similar benefits.
2. Is it formulated the optimal way?
To ensure that the active ingredients effectively penetrate the skin and actually deliver their intended benefits, it is important to consider the following four aspects when evaluating their formulation:
Efficacious concentration levels
For an ingredient to work, sufficient levels of it needs to be added. The minimum amount varies from ingredient to ingredient depending on the study results. For instance, Vitamin C (L-ascorbic Acid) has been found to be effective at a concentration of 5%, while retinoids (e.g. retinoic acid, retinol) can exhibit their benefits at levels as low as 0.01%-0.1%.
Supporting cast
Combining skincare ingredients that work well together can yield improved results and address multiple skin concerns simultaneously. For example, when antioxidants like vitamin C and vitamin E join forces, they become even more powerful in protecting against free radicals and environmental damage. Similarly, when exfoliating agents like AHAs and BHAs team up, they provide a comprehensive exfoliation that targets different skin layers, improving texture and clarity together.
Fresh & stabile ingredients
Ironically a lot of the leading anti-aging active ingredients can age badly! Certain ingredients, such as Vitamin C and Retinoids, are prone to degradation when exposed to light, heat, air, or moisture. This degradation process can occur over time or even more rapidly, leading to a decrease in the potency and effectiveness of the product. Look for skincare products that incorporate stabilizing agents, encapsulated technology or innovative packaging to enhance stability. Furthermore, it is important to store the products properly in opaque containers, away from direct sunlight and extreme temperatures.
Appropriate
pH Value
Different skincare ingredients have optimal pH ranges for maximum efficacy and skin absorption. For example, certain active ingredients like alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and vitamin C require a lower pH (more acidic) to be effective in exfoliating the skin and promoting collagen synthesis, respectively. On the other hand, ingredients like retinol and niacinamide are more stable and effective at a higher pH.
Crafting effective skincare formulations is akin to the art of baking a cake, where the careful selection and combination of ingredients, measured precisely and mixed skillfully at the appropriate pH value, yields the best results.
3. Will I use it the right way?
Once you've picked an anti-aging serum that suits you, there are some essential steps to take to ensure it delivers the results you want.
Being patient & consistent
Instant results are rare; instead, commit to a regular skincare routine and allow products time to work their magic. Consistent use over several weeks or months is often necessary to see visible improvements in the skin. While some people may see results sooner, others may require more time for noticeable changes. Skincare ingredients like hyaluronic acid offer immediate hydration with cumulative benefits over a few weeks, while retinoids on the other hand, typically require several months to show their optimal effects.
Finding your perfect match
Each person has a distinct skin type, concerns, and sensitivities, making certain ingredients more compatible and effective for some while potentially causing adverse reactions in others.
Generally, Vitamin A (Retinoids), Vitamin C (L-ascorbic Acid) and Exfoliating Acids are very potent but also more intense on the skin whereas Hyaluronic Acids, Niacinamide and Peptides are more gentle options.
Following the correct steps
Always start your skincare routine with a gentle cleanser to remove dirt, oil, and impurities from your skin's surface. After cleansing, apply your serum treatment, allowing it to fully absorb. Follow up with a moisturizer with SPF during daytime to lock in hydration and protect skin against UV damage.
If you're using multiple products, start with lightweight, water-based formulas before moving on to thicker, oil-based ones. But remember, less is often more. Overloading your skin with too many products might dilute their effectiveness and hinder proper absorption.
Layering ingredients rightly
When you are layering different products, it’s important to consider the compatibility of the ingredients. Some skincare heroes like retinol, L-ascorbic acid (Vitamin C), alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), and copper peptides prefer to take the spotlight alone. Combining them with other potent ingredients might cause irritation or reduce their impact as they cancel out each other’s benefits. Other ingredients like hyaluronic Acid and niacinamide are easier to combine with others and are therefore often included as supporting cast members.
| Retinol | Vit B3 | Vit C | AHA | GHK-cu | HA | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Retinol | - | ✔ | ✗ | ✗ | ✗ | ✔ |
| Vit B3 | ✔ | - | ✔ | ✔ | ✔ | ✔ |
| Vit C | ✗ | ✔ | - | ✗ | ✗ | ✔ |
| AHA | ✗ | ✔ | ✗ | - | ✗ | ✗ |
| GHK-cu | ✗ | ✔ | ✗ | ✗ | - | ✔ |
| HA | ✔ | ✔ | ✔ | ✔ | ✔ | - |
*Vit B3 (niacinamide), Vit C (L-Ascorbic Acid), AHA (alpha hydroxy acids), GHK-cu (Copper Peptides), HA (Hyaluronic Acid). Please note that derivatives and variations of above ingredients might have different compatibility profiles.
CHEAT SHEET
A review of the evidence in the published scientific literature, reveals that there are only a few proven anti-ageing ingredients. These include a group of Vitamin A derivatives called Retinoids, Vitamin B3 (niacinamide), Vitamin C (L-ascorbic Acid), Hyaluronic acid as well as specific exfoliating acids and peptides.When evaluating skincare formulations, consider:Efficacious concentration levelsSynergistic ingredient combinationsStability and freshnessAppropriate pH value for optimal efficacy and absorption.
To maximize skincare impact:Be patient and consistent with routines, as instant results are rare.Follow the right steps: cleanse, treat, and protect.Avoid overloading the skin with too many products for better absorption.Layer ingredients correctly; use retinol, Vitamin C, AHAs, and copper peptides separately e.g. Vitamin C in the morning and retinol at night.